Forest River Heater Dead? Read the Door Badge
The Short Answer: Forest River is the coach, not the heater. Cherokee, Salem, Wildwood, Rockwood, Flagstaff, Surveyor, Wolf Pup, R-Pod, Georgetown, FR3, Sunseeker, and Forester bays hold Suburban, Atwood/Dometic, or an RV tankless. Cold showers are bypass, ECO, LP, 12 V, or that badge’s board — not a missing “FR” part number. Smell propane, shut the bottles.
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Search Intent & The Real Problem
The VIN plate says Forest River. The shower died at the first spring campground. Towables (Cherokee Grey Wolf, Salem, Wildwood, Rockwood Mini Lite, Flagstaff, R-Pod, Wolf Pup) hide a 4- to 10-gallon DSI tank behind an exterior door, usually curbside or off-door. Class C motorhomes (Georgetown, FR3, Sunseeker, Forester, Leprechaun) often put the same heater in a wet bay. I have never seen a Forest River-stamped vessel. I have seen a lot of Suburban SW6DE / SW10DE Phase 3 boards and Atwood/Dometic GC tanks ordered wrong because someone Googled the coach. Same industry rule as a Thor: the door badge picks the parts.
What other guides get wrong
They sell a Forest River element kit with no Suburban or Dometic number on the bag. They start at the interior switch and never open the bay, so a three-valve bypass still in winterize gets a new board. They put a standing-pilot thermocouple on a DSI heater that has none. And they treat a Wolf Pup 4-gallon like a house 40-gallon flush job.
Step-by-Step Troubleshooting
Step 1: Find the bay, then read the badge — not the Forest River decal
| Coach family | Where I look first | What is usually behind the door |
|---|---|---|
| Travel trailer / fifth-wheel (Cherokee, Salem, Wildwood, Rockwood, Flagstaff, Surveyor) | Exterior access door, often curbside or off-door | Suburban or Atwood/Dometic 6- or 10-gallon DSI |
| Ultralight (R-Pod, Wolf Pup, Rockwood Mini Lite) | Smaller door, sometimes a 4- or 6-gallon | Same OEMs, less water, faster dry-fire |
| Class C (Georgetown, FR3, Sunseeker, Forester, Leprechaun) | Wet bay / utility | Dual-fuel tank or an RV tankless |
| Badge: Suburban Phase 3, SW6DE / SW10DE / SW16DE | That tank | Suburban gas, Phase 3, SW10DE, igniter |
| Badge: Atwood or Dometic | That tank | Atwood troubleshooting, clicking, electric |
| Truma AquaGo / Girard / Furrion | Tankless — no 6-gallon anode | Truma AquaGo or that tankless, not a Suburban board |
| Push-button piezo, standing pilot | Older tank | Piezo won’t spark |
- What to look for: Model sticker on the door liner or the jacket. Photograph it. “Forest River” on the rock guard does not pick an electrode.
- Required tools: Flashlight, phone camera.
Step 2: Bypass, fill, and which fuel is actually dead
- What to look for: Dealer winterize is the usual Forest River callback. Three-valve bypass still in bypass / winterize means the tank never filled even though the city inlet is live. Open a hot faucet until you get a solid stream, no sputter, before you throw either switch. Dual-fuel: leave electric off while you diagnose gas so you do not dry-fire a ~1400 W / ~12 A element.
| What works | Look at first |
|---|---|
| Electric OK, gas dead | LP, DSI/pilot, igniter, solenoid, ECO |
| Gas OK, electric dead | 120 V, ECO, element |
| Both dead | Empty tank, bypass, winterized, or no 12 V and no LP |
| Tankless: no tank | 12 V, LP, inlet screen, freeze lock |
- Required tools: Cabinet diagram, a hot faucet.
Do not spark a DSI on a tank you have not filled. ECO after a dry fire kills gas, electric, or both — same crime as turned on without water.
Step 3: 12-volt and LP at the heater — not a flare you crack
- What to look for: Converter on, battery not at 10 V. DSI boards get stupid under ~10.5 V; rest ~12.6 V is the baseline. Bottles open, pigtail not stripped, regulator not a block of ice. Range lights and the water heater does not = problem in the bay. Nothing LP lights = supply or an auto-stop regulator after a bottle swap.
- Required tools: None on the flares. A DC meter if you are qualified.
Air after a bottle change can delay ignition. Loosening flares is how bays fill with gas.
Step 4: Click, spark, flame — decode that product
| Sound / sight | Meaning | Next |
|---|---|---|
| No click at all (DSI) | Switch, 12 V, fuse, ECO, board | Suburban reset if it is Suburban |
| Click, no spark at the tip | Cracked ceramic, burned lead, board | Spark test, bottles closed |
| Spark, no flame | Bottles, regulator, solenoid, spider nest | Fuel path; electrode is fine |
| Lights, then drops | Dirty rod, gap, flame sense, ECO | Clean/regap or stop cycling |
| Tankless fan, then lockout | That brand’s code | Truma / Girard path, not a thermocouple |
- What to look for: Spark gap about 1/8” (3 mm). Do not short the electrode “to test the board.” Do not put a Suburban 232307-class electrode on a Dometic tank.
- Required tools: Ears at the exterior door. Bottles closed for a spark-only look.
Step 5: Electric ECO, a wet bay, and when the tank is scrap
- What to look for: Shore power or generator actually on the coach. ECO on the jacket after a dry fire — fill, one reset, stop if it will not latch. Rusty tank skin or a wet bay floor is a vessel, not a Forest River “module.” Tankless units do not get a Forest River anode. Heat-damaged harness: licensed, not a YouTube wire nut.
- Required tools: 120 V confirmed dead before you open a box.
When DIY Ends: Calling a Licensed Pro
Stop at a propane smell, a heat-damaged harness, gas-solenoid replacement, a board you cannot match to the door badge, an ECO that will not latch, and any delayed-ignition bang. You may fill the tank, set bypass, confirm bottles and 12 V, and spark-test with fuel off. You may not loosen LP fittings or keep clicking a flooded burner. A mobile tech who stocks Suburban and Dometic beats a fifth trial in a Wolf Pup bay — and beats a “Forest River water heater” listing that does not exist.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Why is my Forest River water heater not working? A: Forest River did not make it. Read the exterior-door badge. Suburban, Atwood/Dometic, or an RV tankless fail on bypass, ECO, LP, DSI/igniter, or 12 V — not on an FR-branded tank.
Q: My Forest River has hot water on electric but not on gas. Is the tank bad? A: No. Dual-fuel Suburban and Atwood tanks are two circuits. Electric working means the tank holds water. Stay on the LP and ignition path for that badge.
Q: Where is the water heater on a Forest River travel trailer? A: Behind an exterior access door, often curbside or off-door — not inside the shower. Motorhomes may hide it in the wet bay. The coach decal still does not pick the part.