Bradford White Igniter Not Working: Spark or Glow?

On this page (4 sections)

The Short Answer: It depends on the heater. Standard Bradford White atmospheric tanks light a standing pilot with a push-button piezo igniter. If it doesn’t click or spark, the igniter, its wire or the electrode is at fault. Power-vent and other electrically powered models use an electronic ignition sequence started by a control board. If those won’t ignite, check the 120-volt power and the blower before suspecting the igniter.

Which kind of igniter does your heater have?

Your heater has Ignition type If it doesn’t light
A gas control knob with PILOT/ON/OFF, a sight glass and a push button, no power cord Piezo spark to a standing pilot Igniter, wire or electrode, or no gas to the pilot
A blower on top, a power cord or wired switch, plastic or metal vent out a wall or roof Electronic ignition controlled by a board Power, blower, pressure switch or vent first, then the ignition parts

Check the rating plate and the lighting or operating label. Both identify the model and describe how it’s lit.

Atmospheric tanks: the piezo igniter

When you press the piezo button, it should click and send a spark across a gap at the pilot. Bradford White’s Defender service chart lists two ignition causes for a pilot that won’t light: a pilot electrode not sparking to the pilot, and a piezo igniter that isn’t working. The same chart also lists no gas or low pressure, the knob in the wrong position or not fully pressed, and a blocked pilot tube or orifice. So a working spark with no flame points to the gas side, not the igniter.

What you can check:

  • Press the button with the room lights dimmed and watch through the sight glass. If you can’t see a spark, report that. A spark that’s visible but doesn’t light the pilot is a different fault.
  • Make sure the knob is at PILOT and held fully down while you press the igniter, as the lighting label says.
  • See water heater piezo igniter won’t spark for more on the spark itself, or Bradford White pilot won’t light if the spark works but nothing lights.

What the technician does: tests and replaces the piezo igniter if needed, checks the electrode wire and its position, and, on Defender models, removes and reseals the inner door to reach the pilot assembly.

Power-vent and other electrically powered models

On these heaters, the control board runs a fixed sequence each time the water needs heating. The blower starts, a pressure switch confirms the vent is clear, the igniter is energized, the gas valve opens, and the board checks for flame. A fault anywhere in that chain looks like “the igniter isn’t working.”

What you can check:

  • That the heater is plugged in and the outlet or switch has power. You can reset a tripped breaker or GFCI once.
  • Whether the blower runs when there’s a call for heat (open a hot tap for a few minutes). If the blower doesn’t run, see water heater blower not working.
  • From outside, that the vent and intake terminations aren’t blocked by snow, leaves or nests.
  • Any status light or code. Note it, and look it up in the manual for your model.

What the technician does: follows the model’s service procedure to confirm each step of the ignition sequence. They test the pressure switch and its tubing, the igniter, the flame sensor, the gas valve and the board, and confirm venting and gas pressure. Don’t jumper a pressure switch or thermal cutoff to “test” ignition. Those parts stop the burner firing when the exhaust can’t get out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is a Bradford White piezo igniter expensive to replace? A: It’s one of the smaller parts on the heater. On sealed Defender combustion chambers, though, reaching the electrode means removing and resealing the inner door, which is why a technician should do it.

Q: The igniter sparks but the pilot won’t catch. Is the igniter bad? A: Probably not. If the spark is visible and lands at the pilot, the problem is usually gas reaching the pilot, such as a closed valve, the knob not fully pressed, or a blocked pilot tube or orifice.

Q: Can I light it with a match if the igniter is dead? A: Only if the lighting label on your heater describes manual lighting. On sealed Defender chambers there is normally no access for a match. Call for service instead.

Before you call a technician

Write down

  • The heater. Photograph the rating plate: brand, full model number, serial number, and fuel. The serial number usually encodes the manufacture date.
  • The pattern. Is every fixture affected? Is the water cold, briefly hot, or lukewarm? Did it start after an outage, a freeze, plumbing work, or a setting change?

Stop and get help if

  • Gas or rotten-egg smell, or a CO alarm: leave now and call the gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not use switches or try to find the source.
  • A burner bang, flames outside the burner area, soot, or a smell of exhaust: turn the heater off at its control and do not relight it.
  • Never cap the relief valve, bypass a safety switch, or open gas, electrical, or sealed combustion parts.

Manuals and supporting references

These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.

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