Bradford White Pilot Won't Light at All

On this page (4 sections)

The Short Answer: If no pilot flame ever appears, gas isn’t reaching the pilot or there’s no spark to light it. The flame sensor only matters once a flame exists. Bradford White’s service chart lists no gas or low pressure, the knob in the wrong position or not fully pressed, a blocked or kinked pilot tube or orifice, and a faulty electrode or piezo igniter.

Narrow it down by what you see and hear

What happens when you try Most likely Who handles it
No click from the igniter button Piezo igniter failed Technician replaces it
Click, but no spark visible through the sight glass Electrode or wire to the electrode Technician
Spark visible, but no flame No gas at the pilot: supply off, knob not fully pressed, or pilot tube or orifice blocked Check the supply and knob yourself, then technician
Flame appears, then goes out when you release This is a different fault See Defender pilot won’t stay lit
Status light on solid and the control won’t respond Control still in shutdown after being turned off Wait for the light to go out

Checks you can make

  • The gas shutoff valve on the supply pipe to the heater. The handle should point along the pipe, which means open.
  • Other gas appliances. If the stove or furnace won’t light either, the problem is the gas supply, a closed meter or an empty propane tank, not the heater. See water heater not getting gas.
  • The knob position and pressure. Bradford White lists two lighting mistakes in its chart: the knob in the wrong position, and the knob not fully pressed. Re-read the lighting label and make sure the knob is at PILOT and pressed all the way in.
  • The status light, if your control has one. If it’s on solid after you turned the knob to OFF, wait until it goes out before trying again.
  • Recent work. If the gas was just turned back on after a meter change or a new installation, there may be air in the line. Clearing it means working on gas fittings, so it’s a job for the installer or gas technician. Don’t open a fitting yourself. See why you shouldn’t purge a gas line yourself.

Make one or two careful attempts. Pressing the igniter over and over with the knob held lets gas into the chamber without lighting it.

What the technician will check

The technician will measure gas pressure at the heater, then check the pilot tube for kinks and the pilot orifice for blockage. Bradford White’s procedure covers cleaning or replacing the pilot assembly. They will also confirm that the electrode sparks across the correct gap to the pilot, and test or replace the piezo igniter. On Defender models, reaching the pilot means removing and refitting the sealed inner door, whose gasket must reseal the combustion chamber. That is one reason this work belongs to a technician.

These are minor repairs. A heater that won’t light is rarely a reason to replace the tank, unless there are also signs of leaking, such as water in the burner area or rust at the base.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: The igniter clicks, but I can’t see a spark. Is it the igniter? A: It could be the igniter, the wire, or the electrode position. In a bright room, you may not see a small spark through the sight glass at all. Try it with the lights dimmed. If you still see no spark, report that to the technician.

Q: Could a new thermocouple fix a pilot that won’t light? A: No. The thermocouple or thermopile only holds the gas valve open after the pilot is lit. If no flame ever appears, the cause is gas or spark.

Q: Can I light it with a long lighter? A: Only if the lighting label on your heater describes manual lighting. Defender combustion chambers are sealed, and most current labels use the built-in igniter only. See Bradford White pilot light reset for the normal relight steps.

Before you call a technician

Write down

  • The heater. Photograph the rating plate: brand, full model number, serial number, and fuel. The serial number usually encodes the manufacture date.
  • The pattern. Is every fixture affected? Is the water cold, briefly hot, or lukewarm? Did it start after an outage, a freeze, plumbing work, or a setting change?

Stop and get help if

  • Gas or rotten-egg smell, or a CO alarm: leave now and call the gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not use switches or try to find the source.
  • A burner bang, flames outside the burner area, soot, or a smell of exhaust: turn the heater off at its control and do not relight it.
  • Never cap the relief valve, bypass a safety switch, or open gas, electrical, or sealed combustion parts.

Manuals and supporting references

These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.

Editorial standards and corrections · Prepare a useful service request