Atwood Water Heater Not Working on Electric
On this page (5 sections)
The Short Answer: On a combination gas/electric Atwood (now Dometic) heater, the electric side is a separate 120-volt circuit with its own switch and a manual-reset high-temperature limit. When propane works but electric doesn’t, the cause is usually no 120-volt power reaching the heater, the electric switch left off, a tripped high limit, or an element that burned out because it was powered with the tank empty.
Why gas can work while electric does not
The gas burner and the electric element share the tank and nothing else. Gas runs on 12-volt DC and propane, and electric runs on 120-volt AC from shore power, a generator or an inverter. Hot water on propane tells you the tank holds water and the burner is fine. It tells you nothing about the electric circuit, so check that circuit separately.
Dometic’s operation manual for the 4-, 6- and 10-gallon Atwood models says to fill the tank completely before you turn on the electric switch, and warns that powering the heater with water not covering the element “may burn out element.” This is the most common way the electric side fails. The usual story is a heater switched on after winterizing, or with the bypass valves still set to bypass.
Match what you see to a likely cause
| What you notice | Likely cause | How urgent |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing in the coach on 120 V works, or only some outlets do | Shore power, generator, pedestal breaker or a tripped GFCI | Fix the power first. It isn’t a heater fault |
| Other 120 V outlets work and the heater’s electric switch is on, but the tank stays cold | Tripped high-temperature limit, failed element, or a wiring fault at the heater | Check the reset once, then call for service |
| Electric quit right after de-winterizing | Element powered dry, or tank still bypassed | Turn electric off until the tank is confirmed full |
| Electric heats, then shuts off again and needs another reset | Thermostat or element fault, or a supply problem | Stop resetting and book a technician |
| Burnt smell, discolored wiring or a tripping breaker | Damaged wiring or element | Leave the electric side off |
What you can check
- Power to the coach. Plug in a lamp or phone charger to confirm that other 120-volt outlets work. Check that the generator is running or the pedestal breaker is on, and look for a tripped GFCI outlet in the kitchen, bathroom or outside. If you rely on an inverter, check that it is switched on and passing power.
- The breaker for the heater. Many coaches put the water heater on its own breaker in the 120-volt panel. You can reset a tripped breaker once. If it trips again, leave it off.
- The tank is full. Check that the bypass valves are set for normal use, not winterizing, then open a hot faucet until water runs steadily with no spitting air.
- The switches. According to the Dometic manual, the electric switch on combination units is on the back of the heater, and many coach builders also fit a wall switch. Both have to be on.
- The high-temperature limit. The same manual places a manual-reset limit switch at the rear of combination units. If it has tripped, it tells owners to press it in with a pencil or other non-metallic object. Do this only with the tank full, only once, and only if you can reach the button without removing a cover. If it trips again, or electric still doesn’t heat, the manual’s next step is a Dometic service center.
What an RV technician will check
A technician first confirms that 120 volts reaches the heater’s junction box with the coach’s normal power source connected. They then check the thermostat and limit switch and test the element for an open circuit or a short to the tank. They will also look for heat damage at the terminals, which is common after a dry firing. A failed element or thermostat on these heaters is usually a part replacement, not a new heater. Dometic warns against aftermarket add-on heating elements because they can lack the heater’s safety controls, so expect the technician to fit the listed replacement part. For what the element job involves, see replacing an Atwood water heater element.
If the tank itself is leaking, or the gas side is also out, start with Atwood RV water heater troubleshooting instead.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Where is the electric switch on an Atwood water heater? A: On combination gas/electric models the factory switch is on the rear of the heater, according to Dometic’s manual. Coach builders often add a second switch inside the RV. Check both before you assume the element has failed.
Q: Can I run the gas and electric sides at the same time? A: Combination units are built to use either or both. Running both heats faster, but it won’t hide an electric fault. If the tank heats only when the propane is on, the electric side still needs checking.
Q: My heater worked on electric last season. Why not now? A: The most common reason is that the electric switch was on while the tank was empty or bypassed during de-winterizing or storage. The high limit may have tripped, or the element may have burned out. Fill the tank, try the reset once, and have the element tested if that doesn’t restore heat. The Atwood reset button page explains which reset applies to which fault.
Manuals and supporting references
These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.
- Dometic (Atwood) water heater models 4, 6, 10 operation manual (MPD 93756) (opens in a new tab)Atwood/Dometic 4-, 6- and 10-gallon pilot, pilot-relight and electronic-ignition models, including combination gas/electric units.
- Dometic: product support (opens in a new tab)Product manuals and support for Dometic equipment; confirm coverage of any legacy Atwood model.
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