Atwood RV Water Heater Element: When to Replace It

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The Short Answer: If your Atwood (now Dometic) RV water heater heats on propane but not on electric, the element is one possible cause, not the only one. First confirm shore power, the electric switch, and that the tank is full with the bypass valves set for normal use. If those are fine, a technician can check the element, its thermostat, and the high-limit cutoff. The element is a 120-volt RV part, not a household one.

First, rule out the simple causes

Atwood dual-fuel heaters have two separate heat sources. If propane still heats the water, the tank, water supply, and gas side are working, and the problem is limited to the electric circuit. Before blaming the element, check:

  • Shore power or generator is connected and other 120-volt outlets in the coach work.
  • The water heater’s electric switch is on. It may be inside the coach or on the heater; your manual shows where.
  • The coach’s 120-volt breaker for the water heater hasn’t tripped.
  • The tank is full and the water heater bypass valves are set for normal use, not winterizing. Open a hot faucet until water runs steadily without air.
What you notice Likely cause Urgency
Electric never heats, propane works Power, switch, breaker, high-limit cutoff, element, or thermostat Low
Electric stopped right after de-winterizing Element burned out by running empty, or bypass still set Moderate; switch electric off
Coach breaker or GFCI trips when the heater switch is on Element or wiring shorting Moderate; leave the switch off
Water heats slowly on electric only Normal; the electric element is much smaller than the gas burner Not a fault
Water dripping around the element area Leaking element seal Moderate; switch electric off
Neither propane nor electric heats Tank empty, bypass set, or both systems failed Check water first

Why elements usually fail in RVs

The most common reason is the electric switch being on while the tank is empty, during winterizing, after draining, or with the bypass valves set wrong. An element in air overheats within moments. Low campground voltage and age also play a part. If an element has burned out once, ask the technician to check the thermostat and high-limit as well, since they may have been stressed too.

What the RV technician will check

With shore power disconnected, an RV technician will check for power at the heater’s electrical connection, test the element for continuity and for a short to the tank, and check the electric thermostat and high-limit (ECO) cutoff. If the element has failed, they drain the tank and replace it with the part Dometic lists for your model, using a new gasket. Atwood tanks are aluminum, so the technician takes care not to damage the threads. They then refill the tank completely before restoring power and confirm the element heats and the cutoff works.

Repair or replace

An element, thermostat, or high-limit is a routine repair. Damaged or leaking threads in the tank opening, a leaking tank, or corrosion around the fitting usually mean a new heater. Use the model and serial number on the heater’s label to order parts through Dometic support (opens in a new tab).

For more on the electric side, see Atwood water heater electric not working. For the full system, see Atwood RV water heater troubleshooting.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I use a household water heater element in my Atwood? A: No. Household elements are built for 240-volt residential tanks and different fittings. Use the element listed for your Atwood or Dometic model.

Q: Why does the water take so long to heat on electric? A: The RV electric element is much smaller than the propane burner, so recovery on electric alone is slower. Many owners use both together when they need hot water quickly.

Q: How can I avoid burning out another element? A: Turn the electric switch off before draining or winterizing, and don’t switch it on until the tank is full and a hot faucet runs without air.

Before you call a technician

Write down

  • The heater. Read the water heater’s own label (Suburban, Atwood/Dometic, Girard, Truma, Furrion), not the coach badge, and note the model and serial.
  • The change. Note when the problem started, what it looks or sounds like, and anything that changed just before it.

Stop and get help if

  • Gas or rotten-egg smell, or a CO alarm: leave now and call the gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not use switches or try to find the source.
  • A breaker that trips again, or a scorched or melted smell: leave it off.
  • A burner bang, flames outside the burner area, soot, or a smell of exhaust: turn the heater off at its control and do not relight it.
  • Never cap the relief valve, bypass a safety switch, or open gas, electrical, or sealed combustion parts.

Manuals and supporting references

These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.

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