Atwood RV Water Heater Troubleshooting

On this page (6 sections)

The Short Answer: Many Atwood RV water heaters, now supported by Dometic, can heat on propane, on 120-volt electric, or both, and the two systems fail separately. Test each one on its own. If one works, the tank is fine and you only need to fix the other. If neither works, the cause is usually no water in the tank, bypass valves set wrong, or no power to the controls.

Test gas and electric separately

Turn one heat source on at a time and give it 20 to 30 minutes:

Result What it tells you Where to look
Gas heats, electric does not Tank and water are fine; electric side has a problem Shore power, the electric switch, the element circuit. See Atwood electric not working
Electric heats, gas does not Tank and water are fine; ignition or propane problem Propane supply, ignition. See Atwood clicking but not lighting
Neither heats Something they share Water in the tank, bypass valves, a tripped overheat safety, 12-volt power
Gas lights, then goes out Flame sensing, airflow, or propane pressure See Atwood won’t stay lit

If your heater is a Suburban rather than an Atwood, the parts and procedures differ; check the label inside the outside access door.

When neither gas nor electric works

Make sure the tank is full. After winterizing or draining, the tank stays empty until you refill it. Set the bypass valves to their normal (not bypass) position, open a hot tap, and let it run until water flows steadily with no sputtering. Only then turn on a heat source. Running the electric element in an empty tank burns it out quickly and can trip the overheat safety.

Check 12-volt power. Both the gas ignition and, on many models, the electric control need the coach’s 12-volt supply. A low or disconnected house battery, a blown fuse, or a switch turned off at the panel stops both. Check the battery disconnect and the fuse your owner’s manual lists for the water heater.

Overheat safety. If the tank overheated (often after heating while empty), a safety cuts both heat sources. On some models this is a reset button and on others a part that must be replaced. Both sit next to wiring behind the outside access door; see Atwood water heater reset button for when an owner reset is appropriate, and have a technician handle anything that involves removing a cover.

What you can check safely

  • Propane cylinders open and not empty; other propane appliances, such as the stove, light normally.
  • Bypass valves in the normal position and the tank full.
  • The water heater switch inside the RV is on, and any lockout light is noted.
  • For electric, the RV is connected to working shore power or a running generator, and the 120-volt breaker for the water heater is on.
  • Insects and debris: look through the outside access door at the burner area for nests. Cleaning the burner tube is a service job.

What the RV technician will check

For gas problems, the technician checks propane pressure at the appliance, the igniter and flame sensor, the ignition control board and the gas valve. For electric problems, they check voltage at the heater, the element, the thermostat and the overheat safety. Element and board specifications vary by model, so the technician uses the model number from the label to get the right parts. For other RV heaters, see the RV water heater hub.

Repair or replace

Igniters, boards, elements, thermostats and safeties are replaceable. A leaking tank is not repairable; it means a new heater. Older Atwood models have parts support through Dometic, though some components have changed.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why does my Atwood only work on gas after de-winterizing? A: If the electric element was switched on before the tank refilled, it may have burned out. Gas heating still works because it does not depend on the element.

Q: Do I need to run both gas and electric? A: No. Either can heat the tank. Using both together speeds recovery, but testing one at a time is the quickest way to find which side has a problem.

Before you call a technician

Write down

  • The heater. Read the water heater’s own label (Suburban, Atwood/Dometic, Girard, Truma, Furrion), not the coach badge, and note the model and serial.
  • The change. Note when the problem started, what it looks or sounds like, and anything that changed just before it.

Stop and get help if

  • Gas or rotten-egg smell, or a CO alarm: leave now and call the gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not use switches or try to find the source.
  • A breaker that trips again, or a scorched or melted smell: leave it off.
  • A burner bang, flames outside the burner area, soot, or a smell of exhaust: turn the heater off at its control and do not relight it.
  • Never cap the relief valve, bypass a safety switch, or open gas, electrical, or sealed combustion parts.

Manuals and supporting references

These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.

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