Truma AquaGo Problems: Field Fixes

The Short Answer: Truma AquaGo (Comfort / Comfort Plus / Compact) is an on-demand LP RV heater, not a 6-gallon Suburban tank. No hot water is usually low 12-volt, LP off, a clogged water-inlet filter, winterize/bypass, freeze protection lock, or failed ignition. Do not keep clicking it with a propane smell. Fill, power, gas, then filter — in that order.

Search Intent & The Real Problem

You left a tank-style RV heater. AquaGo only burns when water flows. That means a weak demand pump, a clogged filter, or a 0.5 gpm shower head can look like “the Truma died.” Error LEDs get pasted from Furrion and Atwood articles that do not apply. Use the AquaGo manual for that SKU.

What other guides get wrong

They apply Suburban SW10DE ECO resets to AquaGo. There is no tank ECO in the same place. They also tell you to “just run vinegar through it” without isolating the Truma — that doses the whole coach. Decalcify only with Truma’s procedure and the service valves that exist on that model.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

Step 1: Prove water, 12V, and LP before you blame the box

• Required tools: Voltmeter, flashlight, the plumbing diagram on the bay door.

Step 2: Inlet filter and minimum flow

• What to look for: Truma’s water strainer packed with well-sand or campground grit. Flow below activation so the burner never starts — you wait, then get cold, and call it a failed heater.
• Required tools: Filter access per that Comfort/Compact variant, bucket.

Same activation-flow physics as house tankless. A 0.5 gpm “water saver” in an RV is how AquaGo never lights.

Step 3: Freeze protection and winter lockouts

• What to look for: Unit that was stored with water in it below freezing. AquaGo has freeze protection that needs 12V — a battery disconnect “to save power” lets it freeze and split. Error/lock after a cold night with the disconnect open is often a dead exchanger, not a sensor.
• Required tools: Visual for cracks, wet bay, ice.

A freeze-split AquaGo is replacement. Power the protection circuit whenever there is water in the unit.

Step 4: Ignition — spark, then gas

• What to look for: Fan/spark trial, then flame. Click with no light = LP, igniter, or air after a bottle swap. Light then drop = flame sense, wind at the flue, or low voltage mid-trial.
• Required tools: Ears at the flue, gas off if you only want to confirm spark. Do not keep cycling.

Air in an LP pigtail after a bottle change is not a reason to loosen flares. See gas line air.

Step 5: Scale, decalcify, and “it used to be hotter”

• What to look for: Hard-water campgrounds, lukewarm at the same setpoint, longer heat-up. Truma publishes a descale path. If you do not have the service connections, that is an RV-tech job.
• Required tools: Manufacturer kit only.

Do not pump household vinegar through a unit still open to the fresh tank.

When DIY Ends: Calling a Licensed Pro

Stop at freeze-split exchangers, LP leaks, board replacement, and any bay that smells like gas. You may set valves to normal, clean the inlet strainer, confirm 12V, and power-cycle once. AquaGo heat-exchanger and gas-train work is RV-tech territory. A mobile tech with Truma parts beats three Amazon “universal RV tankless” boards.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why is my Truma AquaGo not producing hot water? A: Bypass valves, low flow, a packed inlet filter, low 12V, LP off, freeze lock, or ignition failure. Confirm water-power-gas before you buy a board.

Q: Can AquaGo run while I drive? A: Follow Truma’s manual for that model and LP codes for travel. Many coaches disable it in transit. Do not jury-rig a 12V feed that dies when the battery disconnect is pulled if water is still in the unit.

Q: My AquaGo froze. Will a reset fix it? A: A reset fixes an electronic lock. It does not fix a split exchanger. If the bay was wet after a freeze, hire an RV tech and do not restore LP.