U.S. Craftmaster Water Heater Troubleshooting
On this page (5 sections)
The Short Answer: U.S. Craftmaster tanks were built by American Water Heater, which A. O. Smith later acquired. Electric models usually fail at the breaker, the high-limit, or an element. Gas models usually fail at the pilot, thermocouple, or gas control. Before assuming the tank has failed, read any status light against your heater’s label and find exactly where water appears.
Start with the rating plate
Your model number shows the fuel type and tells you which manual applies. Craftmaster tanks were sold mostly through builders and plumbers, so many are now older. The serial number also shows the age; see how old is my water heater. A tank well past its expected life that starts leaking is usually not worth repairing.
Electric models
| What you see | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| No hot water at all | Breaker off or tripped, high-limit (ECO) tripped, or both elements failed |
| Some hot water, runs out fast | Lower element or lower thermostat failed |
| Water too hot, then nothing | Thermostat stuck on until the high-limit opened |
| Breaker trips again right away | Element shorted to the tank or a wiring fault |
Some newer Craftmaster electric models use an electronic thermostat with a status LED. The meaning of each flash pattern depends on the control, and patterns differ between brands, so use the label inside the access cover or the manual for your model number. For example, the meaning of five flashes is not the same across brands; 5 flashes on a water heater covers this. A slow green flash while the tank is heating is often normal; flashing green light explains it.
What you can check: whether the double-pole breaker is on, and resetting it once if it has tripped. If it trips again, leave it off. If the tank was recently drained, make sure it is completely full before the power is restored. An empty electric tank burns out its elements within seconds.
What the technician checks: with the power locked off, they test each element and thermostat, look for burned wiring at the terminals, and find out why the high-limit tripped before resetting it. A high-limit that trips repeatedly usually means a thermostat or element has failed.
Gas models
Most Craftmaster gas tanks use a standing pilot with a thermocouple, and newer ones have a flammable-vapor-resistant (FVIR) combustion chamber. If the pilot won’t light, won’t stay lit, or the burner won’t come on, follow the steps in why won’t my gas water heater stay lit. If your gas control has a status light, read the flash count from the label on the control, not from an electric-model chart.
What you can check: the gas supply valve is open, other gas appliances work, and the pilot is relit only as the heater’s label instructs. If there is a gas smell, leave and call from outside.
What the technician checks: pilot flame and thermocouple, the gas control, the flame arrestor screen at the bottom of FVIR models (lint and dust can starve the burner of air), and venting and draft.
Leaks: find the source before deciding
Dry the area and use a paper towel to find where the water first appears:
- Drain valve at the bottom front: a drip from the outlet or threads. The valve can be replaced.
- Relief valve discharge pipe: water coming out of the pipe means the valve is opening because of high pressure or temperature, or it is worn. Never cap it. See pressure relief valve leaking on a new water heater.
- Pipe connections on top: a fitting or connector, which can be repaired.
- Element gasket (electric): water at an element cover with the jacket dry above it.
- From under the jacket with fittings dry, or rust streaks at the base: usually a failed tank, which means replacing the heater.
Condensation on a gas tank during cold-water refill can also look like a leak; it stops once the tank warms up.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Are Craftmaster parts the same as A. O. Smith or American parts? A: Many Craftmaster tanks share parts with American-built models, but always order by your exact model number. Elements, thermostats, and gas controls differ between models.
Q: My electric Craftmaster has hot water for a few minutes only. Is it the tank? A: Usually not. Short bursts of hot water from an electric tank usually mean the lower element or lower thermostat has failed while the upper one still works. A technician can test both.
Manuals and supporting references
These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.
- PG&E: recognizing and responding to a gas leak (opens in a new tab)Emergency actions for suspected fuel-gas leaks.
- A. O. Smith: standard electric no-hot-water diagnostic chart (opens in a new tab)Professional diagnostic context for standard electric storage heaters; not instructions to open or test your appliance.
- A. O. Smith technical bulletin 51: puddles around a heater (opens in a new tab)Common water-leak sources and the distinction between fittings and a failed tank.
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