State Select Water Heater No Hot Water

The Short Answer: A cold State Select is not one part. Electric: double-pole breaker, ECO, dead upper element. Gas: igniter, FVIR lockout, or a gas control that will not open. Lukewarm with a hot jacket is a mixing valve or dip tube. Read the rating plate and the status LED. Do not crank it to 140°F as a diagnosis.

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Search Intent & The Real Problem

Lowe’s sold you a State Select. Showers died. State Select is State / A.O. Smith builder iron — GS6 gas FVIR tanks and ES-series electrics — not a mystery brand. The internet mixes a standing-pilot relight with a 240-volt element swap. That is how you hold a match on an electric tank. Split fuel first. Igniter-only failures live here: State Select igniter. Rheem-family cold tanks are a different sticker: Rheem not heating.

They start with “turn it up” and “flush with vinegar.” Raising a working tank to 140°F scalds and hides a dip tube. Vinegar does not close an open ECO. They also skip the gas-control LED, so a six-flash igniter circuit gets a new anode. And they treat State Select as orphan hardware — it uses the A.O. Smith / State flash chart.

Step-by-Step Troubleshooting

Step 1: Fuel, then the exact symptom

What you have First checks
Electric tank, totally cold Double-pole breaker, ECO once, element ohms
Electric, short hot then cold Lower element / lower thermostat
Gas, totally cold, dark port Igniter, gas cock, FVIR, LED count
Gas, clicks or glows, never lights Igniter path
Jacket hot, fixtures lukewarm Mixing valve or crossover
Short slug of hot, then tepid Dip tube
  • What to look for: Rating plate (GS vs ES, 40 vs 50). Status LED on the gas control or behind the electric access door.
  • Required tools: Flashlight, contact thermometer, phone photo of the plate and the sticker.

A tankless State / A.O. Smith with digits on a remote is not this page.

Step 2: Electric — breaker, ECO, then ohms

  • What to look for: Both halves of a 30-amp double-pole on. Red ECO on the upper thermostat popped after a dry-fire or overheat. A 4500 W / 240 V element is ~18.8 A and reads ~12–13 Ω with power verified dead; any screw-to-tank continuity is a grounded element.
  • Required tools: Breaker lock, meter. Never energize an empty tank.

One ECO reset after the tank is full and the cause is fixed. Daily resets are a different failure. Thermostat plastic brown: stop swapping parts — thermostats burn for a reason.

Step 3: Gas — LED first, not a bigger tank

  • What to look for: Appliance cock parallel to the pipe (open). Other gas appliances lighting. On many State / A.O. Smith electronic controls a green LED that blinks once every few seconds is normal if water is hot — flashing green. Typical sticker (verify yours): 4 = TCO/ECO, 6 = igniter circuit, 7 = gas-valve circuit, 8 = flame sense. Standing-pilot Select tanks still exist — dark port with a piezo is piezo will not spark.
  • Required tools: Jacket lighting card. No union wrenches.

Air after a meter relight is a licensed purge — do not open gas fittings. Manifold pressure is licensed (NG often ~3.5–7 in. w.c. / LP ~10–11 in. w.c. — confirm the rating plate).

Step 4: Lukewarm is often not the heater

  • What to look for: 120°F at the tank outlet, 104°F at the shower = mixing valve or a failed cartridge dumping cold into hot. Hot for two minutes then cold with plastic bits in aerators = dip tube.
  • Required tools: Thermometer at the nipple vs the fixture.

Do not “fix” that by raising the Select to 140°F.

Step 5: Sediment, leaks, and a tank that is actually dead

  • What to look for: Popping on recovery, rusty flush water, a wet jacket, water in the burner tray. A 10–12 year tank that is also leaking is a replacement, not an element. Paper-towel the source: bottom leak.
  • Required tools: Paper towel. Gas off if the combustion chamber is wet — that tank is done.

When DIY Ends: Calling a Licensed Pro

Stop if you cannot prove 240 V dead, the thermostat is charcoal, the gas valve will not latch, the burner bangs, or the tank is weeping. You may read the LED, test an element on a locked-out circuit, and follow a standing-pilot sticker once. Gas-control replacement, FVIR burner service, and any leak are licensed. A Select that is cold with a tripped ECO and water in the bucket is a fire wait — not a third reset.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why does my State Select water heater have no hot water? A: Electric: breaker, ECO, element, or thermostat. Gas: igniter, FVIR lockout, or gas control. Lukewarm with a hot tank: mixing valve or dip tube. Read the rating plate before you buy a part.

Q: How do I reset a State Select water heater? A: Electric: breaker off, then the red ECO on the upper thermostat once after you know why it tripped. Gas: follow the jacket card — photograph the LED first. There is often no consumer ECO button on the gas control.

Q: Should I turn a State Select up to 140°F to get hot water? A: No. That scalds and hides dip-tube and mixing-valve failures. If the tank cannot make 120°F at the outlet, fix the part.