Water Heater Element Not Working

The Short Answer: On a standard electric tank, a failed upper element usually means no hot water at all. A failed lower element usually means a short supply of hot water, then lukewarm. Elements most often fail from dry firing, sediment, or a short to ground. The breaker, the high-limit cutoff, or a thermostat can cause the same symptoms, so have a technician confirm the failed part.

How the Two Elements Share the Work

Most residential electric tanks have an upper and a lower element, each controlled by its own thermostat. Bradford White’s residential electric service manual (opens in a new tab) describes the usual wiring, called non-simultaneous: only one element runs at a time.

• When the tank is cold, the upper element heats the top of the tank first.
• Once the upper thermostat is satisfied, power switches to the lower element, which heats the rest of the tank.
• During normal use, cold water enters near the bottom, so the lower element does most of the day-to-day heating. After a large draw that cools the top, the upper element takes over again until the top is hot.

This is why the two failures feel different. Without the upper element, the tank never gets its first heat. Without the lower element, only the top portion of the tank gets hot. Some tanks are wired to run both elements together, and single-element models exist, so the pattern is a guide, not proof.

What the Symptom Suggests

The table follows the symptom list in Bradford White’s service manual. A technician confirms the cause; the symptom only narrows it down.

Bradford White’s manual notes that repeated ECO trips are usually caused by a grounded element. A grounded element can also keep running when it should stop, because it may not draw enough current to trip the breaker.

Why Elements Fail

Dry firing. An element must be fully under water whenever it has power. If power is restored before a tank is refilled, or the water supply is off and the tank empties, the element can burn out within seconds. Bradford White also notes that sediment or lime around an element can trap an air pocket and cause the same damage. Its installation manual (opens in a new tab) states that element failure from dry firing is not covered by warranty.

Sediment and scale. Minerals settle at the bottom of the tank and coat the elements, especially the lower one in hard water. This slows heating and can eventually cause a dry-fire failure.

Short to ground. The element’s sheath can break down so current leaks to the tank. This usually trips the breaker, and it can damage the thermostat and wiring.

The Reset Button Is Not an Owner Control

The red reset button on most electric tanks sits on the upper thermostat, behind the access cover, next to live terminals. It belongs to the energy cutoff (ECO), a manual-reset safety device that cuts power when the tank overheats. A trip means something allowed the water to get too hot, such as a grounded element or a stuck thermostat. Resetting it does not fix that. If you suspect the ECO has tripped, leave the breaker off and book service; see why a water heater keeps needing a reset.

What You Can Check Safely

• Look at the breaker for the water heater. It is usually a double-pole breaker. If it has tripped, reset it once. If it trips again, leave it off; breaker trips after a few minutes explains why.
• Check whether every hot tap is affected. If only one fixture is cool, a mixing valve or that fixture is more likely than an element.
• Read the voltage and wattage on the rating plate and write down the model and serial number.
• Note the pattern: no hot water at all, a short supply, or slower recovery, and when it started.
• If the tank was drained or the water was off, do not restore power until a hot faucet runs a steady stream with no sputtering air. That is how Bradford White’s manual describes a full tank.
• Check the floor and the area around the lower cover for water, without opening it.

What the Technician Will Check

With power isolated and verified off, a technician works through the same order as the manufacturer diagnostic charts. Examples are Bradford White’s service manual and A. O. Smith’s standard electric no-hot-water chart (opens in a new tab).

• Supply and wiring: correct voltage at the heater, and tight, undamaged connections.
• The ECO: whether it has tripped, and why.
• Each element: whether it is open (burned out) or shorted to ground. A good-looking reading does not rule out every fault, so they test both elements, not just the one that seems likely.
• Thermostats: whether each one calls for heat and switches correctly, and whether it sits flat against the tank.
• Sediment and tank condition: scale on the removed element, corrosion at the openings, and any leaks.

Repair or Replace?

A failed element is a part repair. The technician drains the tank enough to remove it, fits a new element and gasket rated for the heater’s voltage and wattage, refills the tank completely, and only then restores power. A thermostat or ECO replacement is also a part repair. Ask what failed and why. A grounded element often damages the thermostat too, and repeated failures point to sediment, water quality, or a wiring problem.

The tank itself is a different matter. If the tank leaks, or the element opening is badly corroded, replacing the element does not help, and an older tank may need replacing. Water at the lower cover can be a gasket or the tank; see water leaking at the bottom element. If a new element still gives no hot water, see new element, still no hot water.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Why is the water completely cold if only one element failed? A: On a non-simultaneous tank, the upper element must heat the top before power passes to the lower element. If the upper element or its thermostat fails, the lower element never gets its turn, so the whole tank stays cold.

Q: The heater stopped working right after the tank was drained. Is that related? A: Very likely. If power came back before the tank was completely full, the upper element may have dry fired. Leave the breaker off and have the element checked.

Q: Should both elements be replaced at the same time? A: There is no universal rule. Ask the technician to test both. Heavy scale on one element often means the other is in similar condition, and replacing both during one drain-down can make sense on a tank that is otherwise sound.