Water Heater Anode Rod: What It Does and When to Check It

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The Short Answer: An anode rod is a metal rod screwed into the top of a steel tank that corrodes in place of the tank. Most are magnesium or aluminum. Manufacturers say to inspect it every one to two years, more often with softened water, and replace it when it’s mostly eaten away. Once it’s gone, the tank starts to corrode. Replacing it is a job for a plumber.

What it does

Rheem’s anode bulletin (opens in a new tab) explains that every glass-lined tank has some microscopic bare metal areas exposed to the water. The anode is more reactive than the steel, so the water attacks it instead. A. O. Smith’s 2023 gas manual (opens in a new tab) calls it “a sacrificial metal rod that helps avoid corrosion and premature failure (leaks) in the tank,” and adds that it is “a consumable item.” A. O. Smith’s manuals also warn: “Once the anode rod is depleted, the tank will start to corrode, eventually developing a leak.”

On many tanks the anode sits under a cap or plug on top of the heater. On others it’s combined with the hot water outlet fitting. Rheem’s bulletin notes that on some Rheem models, including its heat pump heaters, point-of-use heaters of 20 gallons or less and residential direct-vent heaters, the anode isn’t accessible.

Types of anode

Type Where you’ll find it What the manufacturers say
Magnesium Standard in most gas and electric tanks Bradford White’s anode bulletin (opens in a new tab) calls it the material that best protects the steel tank
Aluminum or aluminum alloy Offered as a replacement option Bradford White says aluminum is the better choice where water is more conductive, such as softened water or low pH, because magnesium is used up faster there
Powered (electronic) A. O. Smith Voltex heat pump models A non-sacrificial anode. A. O. Smith’s Voltex manual (opens in a new tab) says it “should not need to be replaced under normal operating conditions,” but it works only while the heater has power, so the manual says to drain the tank if power will be off for an extended period

Rheem uses its own R-Tech anode in electric tanks. Its bulletins don’t say what it’s made of.

How often to check it

Manufacturer Inspection interval Who the manual assigns it to
Rheem gas and electric Remove and inspect annually; replace when more than 6 inches of core wire shows Listed in the owner’s routine maintenance
A. O. Smith (2023 gas manual) After the first six months, then annually; more often with a water softener Written to the owner, or “have a qualified person replace it”
A. O. Smith (older manual 315628) After at most three years, then annually; annually with softened water Written to the owner (replacement steps are in the manual)
Bradford White Every 2 years; more often with softened or phosphate-treated water A qualified service technician
State At least annually after the warranty period A qualified technician

The Rheem manual (opens in a new tab) sets the replacement point: when more than 6 inches of core wire is exposed at either end of the rod. A. O. Smith’s older manual (opens in a new tab) adds two signs: most of the rod is thinner than 3/8 inch, or about a third or more of its length shows the bare support wire.

Softened water speeds it up. A. O. Smith says artificially softened water “is exceedingly corrosive,” and Bradford White says a softener may increase how fast the anode is used up.

Why we leave replacement to a plumber

The anode is screwed tightly into a tank under water pressure. Getting it out takes a 1-1/16-inch socket, on some A. O. Smith models it’s under foam insulation, and A. O. Smith notes the anode can be as long as 35 inches, which needs clearance above the heater. Bradford White and State assign the job to a qualified technician, and Bradford White’s heat pump manual (opens in a new tab) cites shock hazard and the risk of leaks. A plumber can also tell you whether a different material suits your water.

When to call one:

  • The heater is past its first few years and nobody has checked the anode.
  • You have a water softener.
  • The hot water smells like rotten eggs. See hot water smells like rotten eggs.
  • The hot water is rusty or discolored, which can mean the anode is gone and the tank itself is corroding.

Don’t remove it for good

Every manufacturer warns against running a tank without an anode. Rheem says doing so “will greatly shorten the life of the glass lined tank and will exclude warranty coverage.” A. O. Smith, Bradford White and State all say removing it voids the tank warranty. If the anode is causing an odor, the fix is a different anode type plus treating the tank, not taking it out.

RV water heaters

  • Suburban tanks use a magnesium or aluminum anode that doubles as the drain plug. Suburban’s manual (opens in a new tab) has owners turn off the electric power, gas and water pump, open a hot and a cold faucet, then remove the anode with a 1-1/16-inch socket to drain the tank. Let the water cool first, since it may be hot. Suburban says to refill the tank and remove all air before relighting or switching the power back on, and recommends replacing the anode yearly, or when more than 75% is consumed. It says to use thread sealant approved for drinking water when reinstalling it, and warns against putting any non-Suburban accessory part, such as an add-on electric heating element, in the anode’s place. See Suburban SW6DE troubleshooting and Suburban RV water heater leaking.
  • Atwood and Dometic tanks are aluminum and don’t use an anode. Dometic warns (opens in a new tab) that installing an aftermarket anode can damage the tank.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Can I tell if my anode is used up without removing it? A: Not reliably. Rusty hot water and a rotten-egg smell are clues, but the only way to judge the rod is to take it out and look, which is why the manuals give an inspection interval.

Q: Does replacing the anode make a water heater last longer? A: It can. State’s manual says replacing a depleted anode “can extend the life of your water heater,” and Suburban says regular replacement can greatly extend tank life. It won’t help a tank that is already leaking.

Q: Is the anode covered by warranty? A: No. A. O. Smith calls anodes a consumable item not covered under warranty, and Bradford White’s heat pump manual (opens in a new tab) says the inspection and replacement rod aren’t covered. Failing to replace a consumed anode can put the tank warranty at risk.

Before you call a technician

Write down

  • The heater. Read the water heater’s own label (Suburban, Atwood/Dometic, Girard, Truma, Furrion), not the coach badge, and note the model and serial.
  • The change. Note when the problem started, what it looks or sounds like, and anything that changed just before it.

Stop and get help if

  • Gas or rotten-egg smell, or a CO alarm: leave now and call the gas utility or 911 from outside. Do not use switches or try to find the source.
  • A breaker that trips again, or a scorched or melted smell: leave it off.
  • A burner bang, flames outside the burner area, soot, or a smell of exhaust: turn the heater off at its control and do not relight it.
  • Never cap the relief valve, bypass a safety switch, or open gas, electrical, or sealed combustion parts.

Manuals and supporting references

These links distinguish general safety information from model-specific documentation. A manual directory helps you locate your unit’s instructions; it does not establish that every model uses the same parts, codes, or test values.

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